Lehenga
is a typical feminine silhouettes that epitomize style, craftsmanship,
quality and class of Indian clothes. These portray feminine versatility,
grace & immense workability and is all about intricate designs, hand
embroidery, cultural revivals, traditions and fine detailing. Lehenga is
a full skirt, which comes with a piece of cloth to cover the head called
ordhini, and another cloth tied on the bosom called choli.
Evolution
Initially the lehengas were merely a piece of cloth tied around the
waist in a pleated fashion with the ends of the cloth left loose. But
soon with the increase in its popularity, the garment went through
fruitful transitions to suit the convenience of the women. The ensemble
still comprises a traditional long skirt, the choli and the dupatta. The
popularity of lehngas has creased proportionately with the times. In
fact, in northern India it has very successfully replaced the
traditional sari as a wedding dress. Now Indian brides prefer to wear
lehenga which enhance their beauty and charm.
Fabrics & Colors
The fabrics used to make the lehenga are in fact the same as those used
under the great Mughal King, Akbar i.e. silks and brocades. The dupatta
is now made of silk, linen of chiffon which is a new development. The
dress is mostly made in red which represents excitement and passion;
orange which is a blend of yellow and red - colors so contrary in
character - produces mystical effects on the mind; pink possesses all
the powers and vividness of red without its frenzied impetuosity and
violence.
Workmanship
The beauty of this royal dress however lies in the fine embroidery or
zari handwork done on it. These can broadly categories the zari handwork
in four categories Dapka, Salma or nakshi, Arri and Gota. Dapka is a
very detailed type of needle work which is done after the fabric has
been put on the adda and chhapai is completed. Salma or nakshi is
cheaper than dapka and considered slightly less exquisite than dapka by
some. But a bridal lehenga cannot be complete without nakshi as it
shines much more than dapka.
Arri work is a more delicate form of embroidery. It is done with both
colored and golden thread. The thread is put on the tip of a pen-like
needle which is passed through the cloth giving chain-stitch-like
impressions. Gota work is done by using gold or silver ribbons of
different widths giving rise to different patterns. These ribbons can be
cut into small pieces and folded in the shape of leaves.
Other Accessories
The bridal lehengas are hence a masterpiece of all these forms of
embroideries in various combinations. To decorate this bridal dress,
kundan stone, katori, golden cords and pearls can also be used. Hence we
can say the lehenga choli is part of history which still lives on in
India.
