From
traditional veil to the fashionable scarf the dupatta has come a long
way. The sheer magic of this attractive accessory gives that perfect
finishing touch to Indian dresses and western styles. The orhni or
odhani literally means a covering. A diaphanous veil, it is used as a
covering for the brest, back, shoulders and head. The orhni is simply a
length of cloth-printed, embroidered or plain, measuring two and a half
to three down the back or wrapped around the shoulder.
As a fashion garment it is an attractive accessory that looks graceful
and breaks the monotony of the dress. A plain silken or cotton salwar
kameez ensemble can look simple an elegant when worn with a heavily
embroidered or sequined dupatta decorated with a beautiful border. Just
a change of dupatta or the manner in which it is drape adds new
dimensions to the outfit. Round the neck, it is worn with jeans,
sometimes improvising as a sarong or as a turban or a sash the dupatta
lends itself to imaginative dressing.
Modes of Wearing
There are various modes of wearing the unsown orhni which is now more
popularly known as the ladies dupatta. When not draped over the head in
the traditional style, it is usually worn with the middle portion of the
dupatta resting on the chest like a garland with both ends thrown over
each respective shoulder. When the dupatta resting is worn along with
the salwar-kameez it is casually allowed to flow down the front and
back, pinned in neat folds over just one shoulder, sometimes the two
inner ends are knotted together over the other shoulder to form a
cowl-like pattern, otherwise it generally drapes down the front and
back. These variations in styles are attempted only with the
salwar-kameez.
Fabrics
The complete invasion of the lower garment by the upper garment was
effectively undermined by the sheer texture of the orhni whose super
fine quality, be it cotton, silk or chiffon, gave tantalizing glimpses
of the garment worn under it adding to its allure and beauty. The latest
in the market are the crinkled tissues, gold block-prints known as
khadi-work in cottons, tinseled work on chiffons an heavy silken
brocades and dupattas in tanchoi, organzas and tissues.
Workmanship
Dupatta, orhni, chaddar-this headscarf or shoulder-scarf is also called
the chunari in Gujarat. Chunari is the term used for the famous tie and
dye work of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Rajasthani dupattas with tie and dye
strips in colourful contrast are known as laharia. Laharia means one
that ripples in the wind. This refers not just to the dupattas that
flutters but also the bold stripes on it that are formed like ripples.
In Himachal it is used as a headscarf knotted at the back of the head
and is called dhathu. Shopping centers in Delhi and Bombay have shops
that specialize in the selling of the varies ranges of the dupattas.
