A
French term, Applique work is a technique by which the decorative effect
is obtained by superposing patches of coloured fabrics on a basic
fabric, the edges of the patches being sewn in some form of stitching.
It is distinct from what is known as patch work in which small pieces of
cut fabrics are usually joined side by side to make a large piece of
fabric or for repairing a damaged fabric. Applique work on modern as
well as traditional Indian themes are hand-crafted on organdi and cotton
cloth. Fully washable, these applique-work items are must-haves as
clothes having applique work can be worn on precious occasions, or gift
them to someone special.
Motifs & Designs
The process is fairly simple and flat motifs are first cut from cloth
and specially prepared motifs are made separately. If more than one of
the same cut motifs is required, a stencil is used. These cut and
specially prepared motifs are then superposed on a base cloth in
predetermined layout and sequence. The edges of the motifs are turned in
and skillfully stitched onto the base cloth or stitched by embroidery or
without turning as necessary. The specially prepared motifs may be
coloured or white.
The layout of various motifs and patterns vary according to the shape
of the piece. The canopy has a large centre piece which may be a square.
This centre piece is then bounded by several borders of different
widths, one outside the other, till the edge is reached. Of the more
common of these motifs are the elephant, parrot, peacock, ducks,
creepers, trees, flowers like lotus, jasmine, half-moon, the sun and
rahu (a mythical demon who devours the sun).
Colors
Just as there are a few fixed motifs only a limited number of colors
are used in the traditional applique craft. These are green, red, blue,
ochre and black. The creative urge of the craftsmen however are released
in the endlessly various combination of motifs as well in the mixing of
these limited colors. While there has been very little change in the use
of motifs, there has been a trend towards greater experimentation in
colour combinations.
Centres of Applique Work
Though the form is not unknown in other parts of India, it is Orissa
and specially in Pipli that the craft has a living and active tradition
continuing over centuries. While the largest number of applique
craftsmen are concentrated in Pipli, there are quite a few in Puri and
very small numbers in Khallikote, Parlakhemundi and Boudh areas also.
The craft is traditionally practised by a caste of professional
tailors, known as 'Darjis'. It is interesting to note that the craftsmen
are socially well organised and there are close family relationships
between the craftsmen of Puri and Pipli. Their organisation can be very
well compared to the craftsmens' guilds of medieval Europe. They also
have annual meetings of craftsmen to resolve social and related
problems.
